Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.